The Rock - Day Two

Not surprisingly, we were the first ones to bed... and the first ones to rise. Other than our skipper, Peter, and the aforementioned Dutch parental pair, we are probably the oldest people on the boat. Most of the kids are backpacking their way across New Zealand (in some cases, the world). The good news is... they were surprised to find out just how old we are.

As we were having some tea out on the back of the boat, we noticed a dorsal fin break the surface about a hundred yards away. Everyone agreed a fin that size had to belong to a shark of sizable proportion. It was gone in short order... without disturbing a couple of ducks that were floating on the surface.

Once everyone else was up, the crew put out a breakfast of porridge, fruit and cereals... and we cruised off in search of a good place to snorkel. Mussel Island turned out to be the perfect place.


Most of us donned wet suits before plunging into the chilly water. It takes a few minutes to get used to it. The wetsuits certainly help. We swam toward the giant rocks, the waves breaking over them. The water's tug and push was tremendous. At times it felt as if you'd be dashed against the jagged volcanic rocks... but just as quickly, you'd be pushed away.

We were diving for green-lipped mussels and kena. (Kena are a native sea urchin.) And we saw heaps and heaps of fish of all kinds. The mussels are attached to the rocks with what seems like super glue... it's a bit of a struggle to rip them away. The kena are much easier. The hardest part is diving down to the rocks while fighting the current, getting a good grip on the mussels and making it back to the surface before gasping for air. But we did it!

Thank goodness my ear plugs worked perfectly and kept the water out of my tubed right ear!

Lunch was on an island beach, not too far away from Mussel Island. There were trails to hike up a nearby hilltop for a spectacular view of the Bay of Islands. Jeff did some kayaking and I did some more snorkeling. Today was finally a day with fine weather... the sun was brilliant and the clouds weren't getting in the way too much. We finally got in a little sun tanning.

Back aboard The Rock, Julian led a kena- and mussel-eating demo. Kena have to broken open with a knife and the eggs (think: caviar) are scooped out with a spoon. The mussels are the same ones we caught this morning... they were steamed. They're the biggest you've ever seen and they're delicious!

We were back in Paihia by mid-afternoon... with plenty of time to relax at the hotel this evening.

P.S. I'm actually feeling the after-effects of being on the boat. The land feels a little like it's moving and rocking. Not feeling "landsick," just odd to feel like the ground is heaving a bit.