Delays, delays, delays.
The trip was going so incredibly smoothly up to this very last leg of the journey.
Apparently, the weather in Philly is a mess. Something about low-level clouds. So a flight from PHL to Atlanta left about two hours late. Since we were supposed to take that aircraft from ATL to CMH, our flight was delayed, too. We sat around the airport for a couple of extra hours... but found some decent nachos to keep us occupied.
We made it home at 1:30am. I have to be at work by 4am. Oy. Eh, sleep is overrated anyway.
Welcome home!
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
San Francisco to Atlanta
Three words: First Class ROCKS!
Not sure how or why our SFO-ATL tickets were upgraded to first class... but who's complaining?! It's awesome!
The flight itself was totally over-booked and Delta was offering US$400 vouchers for people to take other, later flights. Not a chance in the world we were going to give up these seats!
I'm actually writing this aboard the plane... with full plug-in power AND a personal entertainment system (watching the Bourne Ultimatum). They just keep coming with the hot food, snacks and complementary adult beverages. Who could ask for anything more?! Wow!
Not sure how or why our SFO-ATL tickets were upgraded to first class... but who's complaining?! It's awesome!
The flight itself was totally over-booked and Delta was offering US$400 vouchers for people to take other, later flights. Not a chance in the world we were going to give up these seats!
I'm actually writing this aboard the plane... with full plug-in power AND a personal entertainment system (watching the Bourne Ultimatum). They just keep coming with the hot food, snacks and complementary adult beverages. Who could ask for anything more?! Wow!
Auckland to San Francisco
We left early and drove all morning from Pahia to Auckland.
We were dreading another 13-hour flight from Auckland to San Francisco. Ugh. But Air New Zealand makes it easy... so do Captain Xanax and Admiral Ambien. (I took two Ambien... and don't remember having breakfast. Jeff says it's was really good... and that I ate it... and even talked about it. I don't remember a thing. Ambien has reported sleepwalking and even, believe it or not, sleepeating events. Guess I've done it. It might explain the mess on the floor that I don't remember making. Ooops.) They serve a great couple of meals with fine New Zealand wines.
Zonking out certainly makes the flight go faster. By the time I actually woke up, there were only about two hours left. I'm almost afraid to find out what happened to all those hours in between. Yikes!
We were dreading another 13-hour flight from Auckland to San Francisco. Ugh. But Air New Zealand makes it easy... so do Captain Xanax and Admiral Ambien. (I took two Ambien... and don't remember having breakfast. Jeff says it's was really good... and that I ate it... and even talked about it. I don't remember a thing. Ambien has reported sleepwalking and even, believe it or not, sleepeating events. Guess I've done it. It might explain the mess on the floor that I don't remember making. Ooops.) They serve a great couple of meals with fine New Zealand wines.
Zonking out certainly makes the flight go faster. By the time I actually woke up, there were only about two hours left. I'm almost afraid to find out what happened to all those hours in between. Yikes!
Driving to Auckland
We made a quick stop for breakfast and headed down Highways 11 and 1. The scenery is just as beautiful on the way south as it was on the way north.
We stopped in Warkworth for a few minutes. Finally, a chance to snag some fish-and-chips from K&J Takeaways. They're the best! The food is perfectly fried... and it all comes wrapped in newspaper... just the way it's supposed to. It was delicious! A great lunch for our last day in New Zealand.
We also stopped for a little visit at Mahurangi College, my old school. I ran into Mr. Dempsey who said, "Hey! I remember you!" I was in his whanau (house) in 7th form. They let me wander around the grounds for a little while.
The school has changed a bit. They've closed in the pool and built an entire sports complex. Sadly, I wasn't able to find the Senior Common Room. I think I found the doors... but it doesn't look like the room is serving the same purpose any more.
We also made a detour through the Auckland CBD ('cause we had plenty of time before needing to be at the airport). We ran through Albert Park to see parts of the Univeristy. The administration building has an ornate clock tower lovingly referred to as "The Wedding Cake." And Albert Park has beautiful fountains and an enormous floral clock.
Foods to Recreate in the US
Must start having spaghetti and toast (with or without beans) for breakfast again!
Must attempt (again) to make a pavlova for Christmas. Great with a kiwifruit and berry topping!
Must try to find a recipe for "hokey pokey" to eat by itself... with some chocolate... or to mix with some vanilla ice cream. Brought home some duty-free Cadbury "Crunchie" bars but, y'know, they'll only last so long!
Must attempt (again) to make a pavlova for Christmas. Great with a kiwifruit and berry topping!
Must try to find a recipe for "hokey pokey" to eat by itself... with some chocolate... or to mix with some vanilla ice cream. Brought home some duty-free Cadbury "Crunchie" bars but, y'know, they'll only last so long!
Gisborne Earthquake
We did not feel the quake in the Far North District.
Around 8:55pm last night, a 30-second, 6.8-magnitude earthquake rocked the east coast, approximately 50km off shore from Gisborne. At least two buildings collapsed in the city and dozens of other buildings were damaged. The worst damage is in the CBD. The railway line between Gisborn and Napier is shut down until it can be thoroughly inspected. The earthquake was felt as far south as Christchurch and as far north as Auckland's southern suburbs. Many Gisborne residents scurried for high ground in case the quake generated a tsunami (it didn't).
A 4.5 aftershock happened this morning.
A state of emergency was declared for the Gisborne area this morning. The city and the district council have mobilized the civil defense agencies and are trying to get things inspected and cleaned up as quickly as possible.
TVNZ's coverage, to be honest, was very disappointing. The quake was at 8:55pm. The evening newscast was at 10:40pm. In nearly two hours, they still had no video from the Gisborne, only phoners. By the Breakfast show, they had heaps of video and they were doing plenty of aftermath coverage.
http://tvnz.co.nz/view/page/536641/1517941
Around 8:55pm last night, a 30-second, 6.8-magnitude earthquake rocked the east coast, approximately 50km off shore from Gisborne. At least two buildings collapsed in the city and dozens of other buildings were damaged. The worst damage is in the CBD. The railway line between Gisborn and Napier is shut down until it can be thoroughly inspected. The earthquake was felt as far south as Christchurch and as far north as Auckland's southern suburbs. Many Gisborne residents scurried for high ground in case the quake generated a tsunami (it didn't).
A 4.5 aftershock happened this morning.
A state of emergency was declared for the Gisborne area this morning. The city and the district council have mobilized the civil defense agencies and are trying to get things inspected and cleaned up as quickly as possible.
TVNZ's coverage, to be honest, was very disappointing. The quake was at 8:55pm. The evening newscast was at 10:40pm. In nearly two hours, they still had no video from the Gisborne, only phoners. By the Breakfast show, they had heaps of video and they were doing plenty of aftermath coverage.
http://tvnz.co.nz/view/page/536641/1517941
Thursday, December 20, 2007
The Rock - Day Two
Not surprisingly, we were the first ones to bed... and the first ones to rise. Other than our skipper, Peter, and the aforementioned Dutch parental pair, we are probably the oldest people on the boat. Most of the kids are backpacking their way across New Zealand (in some cases, the world). The good news is... they were surprised to find out just how old we are.
As we were having some tea out on the back of the boat, we noticed a dorsal fin break the surface about a hundred yards away. Everyone agreed a fin that size had to belong to a shark of sizable proportion. It was gone in short order... without disturbing a couple of ducks that were floating on the surface.
Once everyone else was up, the crew put out a breakfast of porridge, fruit and cereals... and we cruised off in search of a good place to snorkel. Mussel Island turned out to be the perfect place.
Most of us donned wet suits before plunging into the chilly water. It takes a few minutes to get used to it. The wetsuits certainly help. We swam toward the giant rocks, the waves breaking over them. The water's tug and push was tremendous. At times it felt as if you'd be dashed against the jagged volcanic rocks... but just as quickly, you'd be pushed away.
We were diving for green-lipped mussels and kena. (Kena are a native sea urchin.) And we saw heaps and heaps of fish of all kinds. The mussels are attached to the rocks with what seems like super glue... it's a bit of a struggle to rip them away. The kena are much easier. The hardest part is diving down to the rocks while fighting the current, getting a good grip on the mussels and making it back to the surface before gasping for air. But we did it!
Thank goodness my ear plugs worked perfectly and kept the water out of my tubed right ear!
Lunch was on an island beach, not too far away from Mussel Island. There were trails to hike up a nearby hilltop for a spectacular view of the Bay of Islands. Jeff did some kayaking and I did some more snorkeling. Today was finally a day with fine weather... the sun was brilliant and the clouds weren't getting in the way too much. We finally got in a little sun tanning.
Back aboard The Rock, Julian led a kena- and mussel-eating demo. Kena have to broken open with a knife and the eggs (think: caviar) are scooped out with a spoon. The mussels are the same ones we caught this morning... they were steamed. They're the biggest you've ever seen and they're delicious!
We were back in Paihia by mid-afternoon... with plenty of time to relax at the hotel this evening.
P.S. I'm actually feeling the after-effects of being on the boat. The land feels a little like it's moving and rocking. Not feeling "landsick," just odd to feel like the ground is heaving a bit.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
The Rock - Day One
http://rocktheboat.co.nz/
From the Paihia Wharf, we caught a shuttle out to The Rock around 5pm. It's an old car ferry. It was bought by a man named Peter who is still her skipper. He sailed it right round the northern tip of NZ (with a campervan on the top) and into the Bay of Islands. Then he built a second level on the ferry so it would have sleeping quarters.
Now, it cruises the waters of the Bay of Islands several times a week with a multi-national crew and a manifest full of international travelers, backpackers and families.
There's a huge bar down the middle of the lower deck. Lots of seating and couches. Even a pool table.
On our cruise, we've met people from Holland, Ireland, Canada, Argentina, Sweden, Australia and England. There's even a Dutch family on a seven-month tour of the world. They're home-schooling their 8- and 10-year-olds during the trip and doing a bit of home exchange. We are the only Americans on board.
The evening began with a shooting contest. A duck decoy is trolled out behind the boat while we cruise... and everyone gets a chance to use the air rifles to shoot at it. The winners got free beers. A couple of Canadians won.
Then we did some fishing. I caught two small snappers but they had to be thrown back because they were THAT small. A guy from the Netherlands actually caught a small shark. Some of the fish became dinner... but thank goodness there was plenty of steak and sausages, too. The green-lipped mussels were sooooooo fresh!
Dinner was family-style at a huge table than ran nearly the length of the boat.
The sunset was incredible while we were fishing. And a lot of folks took advantage of the night kayaking. Tomorrow will be a blast!
From the Paihia Wharf, we caught a shuttle out to The Rock around 5pm. It's an old car ferry. It was bought by a man named Peter who is still her skipper. He sailed it right round the northern tip of NZ (with a campervan on the top) and into the Bay of Islands. Then he built a second level on the ferry so it would have sleeping quarters.
Now, it cruises the waters of the Bay of Islands several times a week with a multi-national crew and a manifest full of international travelers, backpackers and families.
There's a huge bar down the middle of the lower deck. Lots of seating and couches. Even a pool table.
On our cruise, we've met people from Holland, Ireland, Canada, Argentina, Sweden, Australia and England. There's even a Dutch family on a seven-month tour of the world. They're home-schooling their 8- and 10-year-olds during the trip and doing a bit of home exchange. We are the only Americans on board.
The evening began with a shooting contest. A duck decoy is trolled out behind the boat while we cruise... and everyone gets a chance to use the air rifles to shoot at it. The winners got free beers. A couple of Canadians won.
Then we did some fishing. I caught two small snappers but they had to be thrown back because they were THAT small. A guy from the Netherlands actually caught a small shark. Some of the fish became dinner... but thank goodness there was plenty of steak and sausages, too. The green-lipped mussels were sooooooo fresh!
Dinner was family-style at a huge table than ran nearly the length of the boat.
The sunset was incredible while we were fishing. And a lot of folks took advantage of the night kayaking. Tomorrow will be a blast!
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
Waitangi is ground zero for New Zealand history. It's been called the "Birthplace of New Zealand." It's where the British signed a treaty with the Maori chiefs.
The Treaty of Waitangi is still enforced today.
It gave the British the right to govern. But still preserved a host of rights for the Maori people and culture. It remains one of the most important documents in New Zealand history and current law.
Glow Worm Caves
By chance, on our way to Paihia, we noticed signs for the Kawiti Glow Worm Caves. It turned out to be a great, spur-of-the-moment side trip.
Driving up to the Kawiti Marae, you first notice the huge, rocky outcroppings. They're sandstone and limestone. Tens of stories high. And randomly carved into bizarre natural shapes.
The Kawiti tribe has occupied the land since the 17th century. Our tour guide is part of the 16th generation of guides descended from Roku, the runaway wife of a Maori chieftain.
The caves twist and turn through the inside of an outcropping. A small stream runs through it. The tribe has built a wooden boardwalk through it. Inside, there are thouands of tiny worms hanging from the cavern walls, the stagtites and the stalagmites. Their tails emit a small, blue-green light to attract insects to their sticky tendrils.
In the dark, it looks like the Milky Way; thousands of points of light, shimmering in the inky blackness.
After the cave tour, there's a 15-minute trek through the bush, back to the car park.
We may have skipped Waitomo Caves... but we still got to see glow worms! Yea!
Paihia
The rain came down in buckets overnight. Downpours so loud we could hear it beating on the motel roof. In the morning, Northland was shrouded in a drenching mist. It wasn't an actual rain, but a few seconds outside and you were soaked. It all cleared up by midday. We had mostly cloudy sides with some fine periods.
The drive to Paihia was very pleasant. It's beautiful countryside. (And we'll be backtracking it all in a few days.)
Paihia is a small town on the Bay of Islands. It's the home of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. It's become fairly touristy now with cafes and shops and souvenir stands. We saw ads for homes and condos going for well over a million dollars.
From the wharf you can catch a boat to see the Hole in the Rock, the dolphin tours, a helicopter ride or our accommodation for the night, The Rock.
The drive to Paihia was very pleasant. It's beautiful countryside. (And we'll be backtracking it all in a few days.)
Paihia is a small town on the Bay of Islands. It's the home of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. It's become fairly touristy now with cafes and shops and souvenir stands. We saw ads for homes and condos going for well over a million dollars.
From the wharf you can catch a boat to see the Hole in the Rock, the dolphin tours, a helicopter ride or our accommodation for the night, The Rock.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Weather Update
The weather has treated us pretty well most of the trip. It's been warm and humid the past few days.
Christchurch: mostly sunny.
Kaikoura: partly cloudy
Wellington: partly to mostly cloudy
Tongariro: mostly cloudy to overcast
Taupo: mostly cloudy with occasional showers and fair bits
Rotorua: mostly cloudy
White Island: mostly sunny and hot
Auckland: mostly cloudy with occasional light showers
Auckland: a quick morning shower then partly cloudy
Auckland: mostly cloudy with a few passing showers
Whangarei: cloudy with showers and a few downpours
Christchurch: mostly sunny.
Kaikoura: partly cloudy
Wellington: partly to mostly cloudy
Tongariro: mostly cloudy to overcast
Taupo: mostly cloudy with occasional showers and fair bits
Rotorua: mostly cloudy
White Island: mostly sunny and hot
Auckland: mostly cloudy with occasional light showers
Auckland: a quick morning shower then partly cloudy
Auckland: mostly cloudy with a few passing showers
Whangarei: cloudy with showers and a few downpours
Whangarei
The drive to Whangarei (fahn-gar-RAY) wasn't too bad... but we had to deal with rain much of the way. Some of it very heavy rain. This is the first time in a week and a half we've seen much precip.
Whangarei is just a rest stop and laundry opportunity for us tonight. There's really not much here to see other than the Whangarei Falls. They're pretty... but not quite as spectacular as some of the other falls we've seen on the trip. Still, worth driving out to see.
Remembering Warkworth
It's incredible what a difference 20 years makes. Parts of Warkworth are just about as I remember them... but other parts are totally unrecognizable. The whole town is growing and growing and growing!
The city centre has blossomed into a thriving little shopping area. Some of the same stores are there... others have change completely. The banks are in the same place... and we're going to have to stop at the K&J Shop to get fish and chips on the way back south.
We went up to Kaspar Street to see the Rose's old house. It's been added onto... and it's for sale just now! (Hmmmmmmmm.) We took a drive out to Mahurangi Heads to see the Abbott's old place. What used to be a gravel and dirt sheep track is now a sealed/paved road with a name! The house is just as we left it... but with much bigger trees. We weren't able to get out to Casnell Island because it wasn't low tide yet. But we snapped some pictures from the shore.
We went out to Point Wells and Matakana but, unfortunately, I wasn't able to find the Waddington's house. It's out there somewhere... I'm sure we passed by it at least once. Omaha has turned into a little yuppieville with brand new, modern houses being built by the dozens... right up to the beach. Most of them inhabited by well-to-do Jaffas.
It was a great walk down memory lane. Really glad we took the time to do it. Jeff deserves a huge thank you... he's been very patient today, putting up with all of this.
Walk Down Memory Lane
Today was the day. We got to spend time with Anne Waddington and Rose Rose... two of the best host mums a kid could ever ask for. It's been 20 years (nearly 21 years) since we've seen each other... and it was great to do a little catching up.
Neither of them has changed a bit.
We met Anne for breakfast at the hotel in Auckland. Her son, Gareth, came along, too. (He's grown up, to be sure! Looks a lot like his dad!) Anne is just back from Scotland where she's been taking care of an elderly couple... and traveling the world. She's been all over Europe and to lots of places in Africa. The caregiver job allows her some freedom to take time and travel.
Anne told us the tragic story of how Barry and Jeanette Jones' daughter was murdered in Auckland. Awful situation. She was on her way home, walking past a park, only a block or so from the police station, when she was attacked. She was raped and murdered by a man out on parole. He's been put away for life now. Anne and Rose said the news hit the Warkworth area pretty hard... and people are still a bit unsettled by it.
We met up with Rose in Warkworth. The boys are grown and she and Barry have bought a nice piece of land near Wellsford. Barry is planning to retire from the police force "in about two years." Rose is doing sales at the local electronics store -- she's such a people person she could sell just about anything. They're doing great and seem wonderfully happy. Rose always has a great smile and witty comment.
In Warkworth also ran into Wendy Milne who says Don is at home these days.
Neither of them has changed a bit.
We met Anne for breakfast at the hotel in Auckland. Her son, Gareth, came along, too. (He's grown up, to be sure! Looks a lot like his dad!) Anne is just back from Scotland where she's been taking care of an elderly couple... and traveling the world. She's been all over Europe and to lots of places in Africa. The caregiver job allows her some freedom to take time and travel.
Anne told us the tragic story of how Barry and Jeanette Jones' daughter was murdered in Auckland. Awful situation. She was on her way home, walking past a park, only a block or so from the police station, when she was attacked. She was raped and murdered by a man out on parole. He's been put away for life now. Anne and Rose said the news hit the Warkworth area pretty hard... and people are still a bit unsettled by it.
We met up with Rose in Warkworth. The boys are grown and she and Barry have bought a nice piece of land near Wellsford. Barry is planning to retire from the police force "in about two years." Rose is doing sales at the local electronics store -- she's such a people person she could sell just about anything. They're doing great and seem wonderfully happy. Rose always has a great smile and witty comment.
In Warkworth also ran into Wendy Milne who says Don is at home these days.
Petrol Still Really Expensive
Thankfully, our rented Toyota Camry (we landed a free upgrade) is good with fuel. We've been more than 1200km on the North Island and we've only had to fill up twice so far. Today, we picked up another 57.59 litres at NZ$1.719/litre... total of NZ$99.00.
Driving an SUV in New Zealand has to cost a fortune. Yikes!
Driving an SUV in New Zealand has to cost a fortune. Yikes!
Whangarei Food
In New Zealand, never try to get dinner after 9pm. It ain't gonna happen. Especially in a place like Whangarei. In Auckland, you might get away with it... but not in Whangarei.
We tried four different restaurants... and ended up at a pizza shop called Hell. Turns out, Hell is an NZ-wide chain with great pizza! They even sell demonic souvenirs, taking the theme to the nth-degree. They've even managed to snag a demonic phone number... 0800.666.111.
http://www.hell.co.nz
We tried four different restaurants... and ended up at a pizza shop called Hell. Turns out, Hell is an NZ-wide chain with great pizza! They even sell demonic souvenirs, taking the theme to the nth-degree. They've even managed to snag a demonic phone number... 0800.666.111.
http://www.hell.co.nz
Monday, December 17, 2007
Time For Some Sunscreen
We really should have worn some sunscreen today. We both ended up with a bit of sunburn after being in the sun during our trip to Waiheke Island.
New Zealand has the highest rate of skin cancer in the world. This is the home of the hole in the ozone layer. The UV Index today was 13+. (In Ohio, it rarely makes it to 10.)
Now, kiwi men are being busted out for not wearing sunscreen. So are we.
Here's a link to an article in today's New Zealand Herald:
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/story.cfm?c_id=204&objectid=10482649
New Zealand has the highest rate of skin cancer in the world. This is the home of the hole in the ozone layer. The UV Index today was 13+. (In Ohio, it rarely makes it to 10.)
Now, kiwi men are being busted out for not wearing sunscreen. So are we.
Here's a link to an article in today's New Zealand Herald:
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/story.cfm?c_id=204&objectid=10482649
Don't Like the Weather, Wait 5 Minutes
The weather was foul this morning. The rain came down in buckets.
But in the short time it took for us to drive to Orewa, only about 20-30km away... the sun came out and the skies were clear.
In Auckland a couple hours the later the sun was brilliant.
At Waiheke Island, the skies were fair and the sun was baking... but as we putted back toward Auckland late in the afternoon, we could see the showers in the distance.
The clouds come and go... the showers are here and there. It's a forecaster's nightmare.
Waiheke Island
Waiheke Island is known for its beaches and "eclectic lifestyles" (read: "bunch of artists and homos"). There are galleries and public sculptures scattered all over the place. The island is big enough for three small villages, full bus services and regular ferry service.
The ferry leaves from the Queen Street Wharf and takes about half an hour. It runs through the Hauraki Gulf past the dormant shield volcano, Rangitoto, among a dozen or so other islands.
We jumped on a bus and took it to Palm Beach. We were expecting to have lunch there... but didn't find much. So we caught another bus... but ended up going the wrong way and ended up headed back toward the ferry terminal.
This time we jumped off in Oneroa, searching for some lunch. Every restaurant we tried was closed or closing in a few minutes. Aaaargh. So, we waited for the Island Queen restaurant to open at 4pm. Our server was a nice kid from California who claims to be losing his American accent (ummm, not so much). The food was good and the gin-and-tonics were probably the best we've had so far!
It's a beautiful place to visit! Probably a great place to have a vacation bach or getaway from the city...
Hmmmmmmmm....
Orewa
Wow. Things have changed in 20 years. We're in my neck of the woods now. These are the areas where I used to live... two decades ago. So, seeing the changes is really amazing.
Highway 1 is a major thoroughfare now. Twenty years ago, it was just a two-lane road running by the beach at Orewa and the town was just a wide spot in the road.
Now, there are huge neighborhoods and subdivisions. The town centre has dozens of shops... even a supermarket!
Can't wait to see how Warkworth has changed!
We stopped for a little breakfast, a quick look through the shops and a stroll on the beach. The jellyfish were washing ashore (the little bastards) and we picked up a few shells as souvenirs. And, of course, we had to stop for a little time with the puhutukawa trees in full bloom.
Highway 1 is a major thoroughfare now. Twenty years ago, it was just a two-lane road running by the beach at Orewa and the town was just a wide spot in the road.
Now, there are huge neighborhoods and subdivisions. The town centre has dozens of shops... even a supermarket!
Can't wait to see how Warkworth has changed!
We stopped for a little breakfast, a quick look through the shops and a stroll on the beach. The jellyfish were washing ashore (the little bastards) and we picked up a few shells as souvenirs. And, of course, we had to stop for a little time with the puhutukawa trees in full bloom.
Swain Tours & Grandview Travel
We have to give a shout out to the folks at Swain Tours and Grandview Travel.
About six months ago, I went to Rob Elking in Grandview and told him we wanted a trip to New Zealand. I gave him an itinerary and told him what we wanted. He contacted Swain Tours and they made it happen.
Swain picked the hotels. They landed good prices. They scored great locations. And very good rooms with wonderful views.
They did a super job of making our itinerary a reality. It has been, quite literally, a dream vacation... 20 years in the making.
About six months ago, I went to Rob Elking in Grandview and told him we wanted a trip to New Zealand. I gave him an itinerary and told him what we wanted. He contacted Swain Tours and they made it happen.
Swain picked the hotels. They landed good prices. They scored great locations. And very good rooms with wonderful views.
They did a super job of making our itinerary a reality. It has been, quite literally, a dream vacation... 20 years in the making.
Sunday, December 16, 2007
(N)One Tree Hill
In Cornwell Park, atop one of the tallest summits in the city, a monument honors the great Maori nation. Until a few years ago, a single tree stood next to the hundred-foot obelisk. One obelisk. One tree. One mountain. One Tree Hill.
The tree is gone.
There's nothing left but some dirt, a few old, leftover roots and a small piece of stump. It is most disconcerting.
We're told the tree was destroyed in some kind of protest. The vandal has been "dealt with by the government." And, reportedly, another sapling is being cultivated and will be planted on top of the hill as soon as it is strong enough to survive.
With or without the tree, One Tree Hill (the name still stands) has one of the best views in the city. From the summit you can see both harbours (from the Tasman Sea to the Pacific Ocean), the CBD, up and down the coastline (as far out as Great Barrier Island) and the entire city. It's a panorama not to be missed!
Bethell's Beach
A few kilometers out of the city, the west coast beaches are beautiful black sand. We went to one of the popular surfer locations, Bethell's Beach. It was low tide and the sand went on and on and on. The waves weren't too rough but the surfers were having a great time.
Puhutukawa trees (the NZ Christmas Tree) are blooming now. There were lots of them near the beach. They blossom with beautiful red flowers all over the tree.
Auckland SkyJump
I threw myself off a 192m (630ft) tower this morning.
The SkyTower is the tallest tower in the southern hemisphere. It's Auckland's major landmark and tourist attraction. And you can jump off it. So I did.
The view from the top of the platform is incredible. You can see the entire city... from One Tree Hill to the Auckland Harbour Bridge. The buildings look sooooo small from up there.
They get you shoehorned into a flight suit then strapped to a couple of guide-wires. You hyperventilate a little bit as you're staring down at the ground. Then you just step off a platform and plummet toward the city sidewalks.
The pictures and video are great! (They're not in the right format to put on the web... but we'll show them to you after the trip!)
The SkyTower is the tallest tower in the southern hemisphere. It's Auckland's major landmark and tourist attraction. And you can jump off it. So I did.
The view from the top of the platform is incredible. You can see the entire city... from One Tree Hill to the Auckland Harbour Bridge. The buildings look sooooo small from up there.
They get you shoehorned into a flight suit then strapped to a couple of guide-wires. You hyperventilate a little bit as you're staring down at the ground. Then you just step off a platform and plummet toward the city sidewalks.
The pictures and video are great! (They're not in the right format to put on the web... but we'll show them to you after the trip!)
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Auckland's Gay Scene
Exploring Auckland's gay scene was a bit of an adventure. And, sadly, underwhelming and disappointing.
Before we left the U.S., we did some internet research and made a list of gay bars, restaurants, etc., in cities that we'd be visiting. The only bar we could find in Wellington was closed the day we were there. So Auckland was the place to explore.
We went searching for a place relatively close to the hotel on Anzac Street. We got bad directions from two different people but finally found a hole-in-the-wall adult book shop and went inside to ask where to find the bar. "Oh, it's in the sauna upstairs," said the man behind the counter. We asked for directions to other places.
Most of Auckland's gay places are in Karangahappe Road ("K' Road"). The man at the book shop said that's where we should go. Jeff asked whether we should take a cab and the man, literally, gasped and said, "Oh, no! Walk! It's only 20 minutes walk." He gave us some quick directions and off we went.
Ummm, yeah. Not 20 minutes. More like 45 minutes. Uphill. To the top of Queen Street then to K' Road.
Our first stop was a place called the Family Bar. They were very nice folks. Treated us really well and gave us some suggestions for other places to visit. The bartenders, Francis and Mark, found copies of the local gay paper for us and told us a little about the community.
We were surprised how subdued the nightlife was. There were very few people out and about.
Urge Bar was not too far up the street. It's the local leather bar. It was a single, small room with a bar. My backyard patio is a larger space. Again, everyone was very friendly. And, it turns out, they were ready for us. They had a heads up from the folks at Family Bar that a couple of Americans were headed there... and they were told to treat us well. It was nice.
We called it a night by 10:30pm.
To be honest, for a country that is so progressive... light years ahead of the U.S. in terms of gay inclusion... it really seemed like the community was in hiding. Jeff is right when he calls it "heartbreaking."
Before we left the U.S., we did some internet research and made a list of gay bars, restaurants, etc., in cities that we'd be visiting. The only bar we could find in Wellington was closed the day we were there. So Auckland was the place to explore.
We went searching for a place relatively close to the hotel on Anzac Street. We got bad directions from two different people but finally found a hole-in-the-wall adult book shop and went inside to ask where to find the bar. "Oh, it's in the sauna upstairs," said the man behind the counter. We asked for directions to other places.
Most of Auckland's gay places are in Karangahappe Road ("K' Road"). The man at the book shop said that's where we should go. Jeff asked whether we should take a cab and the man, literally, gasped and said, "Oh, no! Walk! It's only 20 minutes walk." He gave us some quick directions and off we went.
Ummm, yeah. Not 20 minutes. More like 45 minutes. Uphill. To the top of Queen Street then to K' Road.
Our first stop was a place called the Family Bar. They were very nice folks. Treated us really well and gave us some suggestions for other places to visit. The bartenders, Francis and Mark, found copies of the local gay paper for us and told us a little about the community.
We were surprised how subdued the nightlife was. There were very few people out and about.
Urge Bar was not too far up the street. It's the local leather bar. It was a single, small room with a bar. My backyard patio is a larger space. Again, everyone was very friendly. And, it turns out, they were ready for us. They had a heads up from the folks at Family Bar that a couple of Americans were headed there... and they were told to treat us well. It was nice.
We called it a night by 10:30pm.
To be honest, for a country that is so progressive... light years ahead of the U.S. in terms of gay inclusion... it really seemed like the community was in hiding. Jeff is right when he calls it "heartbreaking."
TVNZ
The Auckland headquarters for Television New Zealand is only a few blocks away. So, of course, I had to stop for a look. It's smallish... but still kind of cool. We rang security to see if they had a gift shop. Nope. No TVNZ souvenirs.
Rydges Hotel Auckland
The drive up to Auckland takes about 2.5 hours. It's an okay drive through rolling countryside. It's pretty. Getting into the "big city" is a little bit of culture shock after being in small towns most of the week.
The Rydges Hotel is great! It's in the middle of the Central Business District, two blocks from the SkyTower. We're on the 9th floor... with a view looking directly at the SkyTower!
Buried Village
The village of Te Wairoa is gone... along with 153 souls. So are the Eighth Wonder of the World, the Pink and White Terraces. They were all lost in the massive, overnight eruption of Mt. Tarawera on June 10, 1886.
For "four terrifying hours," the mountain exploded and hot ash and boiling mud rained down on the village. Buildings collapsed. Homes were buried under a couple of meters of ash and mud. The terraces were destroyed.
Today, you can see what's been excavated. The family who bought the land in the 1920's began the task of uncovering the village.
The village's tragedy is partly told through the letters of a woman named Margaret. She seems to have written letters to family and friends every hour, on the hour documenting the devastation. Jeff points out, "She needed the comfort of a man." Amen.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Maori Hangi
The Hangi is the traditional, cooked-in-the-ground Maori feast. In Rotorua, it's become a tourist-trap-style event... complete with a show and demonstration of Maori dance and hakas. We partook of the show in our hotel.
We were the only non-Asians in the audience. In fact, other than the performers, we were the only English speakers. And the cheese factor was off the charts.
White Island
We walked through the living, breathing, killer crater of New Zealand's only active marine volcano. White Island is connected to the same system of volcanoes that rumble around Rotorua and Taupo. The same group that helped form the North Island and has been responsible for some of the world's greatest eruptions.
The shuttle picked us up from a hotel down the street and took us 85km, past Lakes Rotorua, Rotoehu and Rotoiti, Rotoma, and past Mt. Egmont, to the coastal town of Whakatane (fah-kah-TAHN-eh). Then a boat took us 29km to White Island. The boat can't actually dock at what's left of the White Island wharf... so we had to use inflatables to get to the actual island.
We spent about two hours trekking over the crater's wasteland, exploring the vents, the boiling mud pools and the crater lake. The lake is extremely acidic. In fact, on the pH scale, some scientists have placed it at -0.5... yes, even more acidic than pure acid. (On the pH scale, 14 is alkaline, 7 is water and 0 is acidic.)
The activity on White Island is actually relieving some of the pressure on the area's volcanic system. Without it, other volcanoes could erupt sooner... perhaps even in Auckland. Ngauruhoe, by the way, is being watched closely because it's due for some kind of "release."
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Hell's Gate Wai Ora Spa
Hell's Gate is on tribal land but now owned by a private firm. Many of the employees are members of the land's original Maori tribe. It is said to be one of the most active thermal areas in Rotorua.
We took the shuttle (The Mud Bus) about 15km out of town toward Whakatane to the spa. The first hour includes the walk through the thermal reserve. There are dozens of boiling pools, thermal vents, bubbling mud, sulphur crystals and a real mud volcano. (Apparently, the volcano was a few meters higher a few months but it blew itself apart again... as it does every few months.)
The mud baths are like stepping into a vat of muddy water with thick, dark grey mud. You can scoop the mud off the bottom of the pool and apply it to your whole body. It feels really wonder. The icy cold shower afterward closes your pores and invigorates your body. (It really sucks.)
After the mud is the sulphur bath. It's a huge hot pool full of yellowish-greenish water. The sulphur is supposed to be good for your skin. As a note: Jeff did not wear his rings into the water... but there is so much sulpher in the air, the rings turned brassy. They're a mess now.
The massages were wonderful. As always, too short.
Exploring Rotorua
While Jeff was napping this afternoon... so stole away to explore a bit and headed for the lakeside, etc.
The first stop was Government Gardens, the home of the Rotorua Museum, the recently-restored Blue Baths, and the city's best lawn bowling greens. Today people were bowling in their traditional whites. One of the thermal vents in the Gardens is an ancient Maori burial site. It is still considered tapu (sacred). Warriors' bodies were tossed into the deep vent to keep them from falling into enemy hands.
Lake Rotorua itself is a thermal wonder. The entire south end of the lake is a milky, yellow-green because of all the sulphur in it. Steam vents and boiling pools line the edges. Even when you can't see the boiling water in the holes, you can hear it gurgling and gushing around. Just be careful of the gulls... they did a bit of dive bombing today... thought at least one was going to take out my head.
Zorb
The Zorb is, quite literally, a big ball of fun.
We did the water version.
It's a giant, hamster ball, surrounded by an even bigger hamster ball. They dump some warm water in it... and roll you down a huge slalom. It's almost impossible to control which way the thing rolls. And you just bounce around inside the inner ball. It's a blast!
The sign-in certificate includes an emphatic disclaimer: "WARNING! Sporting activities such as Zorb riding can be dangerous. You can be serious injured or even killed as a result of your participation in Zorb riding."
(The photos are stuck on a CD... so you'll have to wait to see them. In the meantime, you can check out the Zorb at http://www.zorb.co.nz.)
Rotorua
We stopped for petrol again today. Oy. $1.70/litre. Total of NZ$90.01. Gawd it's expensive to drive a car here!
Jeff's keen sense of smell was quick to notice the ever-present aroma of sulphur in Rotorua. "It really stinks here." The thermal vents produce a sulphur smell... and so doe the lake itself. For most of us, it doesn't take long to get used to it and not even notice it.
The Rydges Rotorua Hotel is okay. It's right in front of the Rotorua Race Track (harness racing). It's time, though, for the Rydges to do a little updating and remodeling. The rooms are nice but a little dated.
Jeff's keen sense of smell was quick to notice the ever-present aroma of sulphur in Rotorua. "It really stinks here." The thermal vents produce a sulphur smell... and so doe the lake itself. For most of us, it doesn't take long to get used to it and not even notice it.
The Rydges Rotorua Hotel is okay. It's right in front of the Rotorua Race Track (harness racing). It's time, though, for the Rydges to do a little updating and remodeling. The rooms are nice but a little dated.
Orakei Korako
Orakei Korako was our first thermal area. It's just north of Taupo, in the middle of rolling rural area, between Highway 1 and Highway 5. It's private land... with its own lake and thermal reserve.
We took the boat shuttle to the reserve and started wandering the track over the steaming, mineral-coated, rocky terrain. The colours are like an Artist's Palette (they named part of the reserve that). The Diamond Geyser was steaming but not quite ready to erupt. The Sapphire Geyser (how appropriate for us) DID blow while we were close by. Interestingly, it erupts horizontally.
We climbed down into a huge cave. Scientists still don't quite understand how or why it was formed. The water in the bottom is very alkaline and said to be good for cleaning jewelry. Jeff tried it and said it seemed to work a little bit. If you put your left hand in the water and make a wish, the legend says the wish is guaranteed to come true.
The boiling mud pools sputter and spit constantly. And the landscape is dotted with random steam vents. In the middle of some trees and brush, a constant column of steam just belches forth.
Allergies
The allergies are going a bit nuts on the North Island. We don't really know what the specific triggers are... but since it's late spring and everything is in bloom, there are a number of suspects.
The New Zealand Christmas Tree (pahutukawa) is going into full bloom this time of year. The Manuka trees are full of dense pollen. Screeds of other flowers and trees are also blooming and spewing crud into the air. It's an allergist's nightmare.
The New Zealand Christmas Tree (pahutukawa) is going into full bloom this time of year. The Manuka trees are full of dense pollen. Screeds of other flowers and trees are also blooming and spewing crud into the air. It's an allergist's nightmare.
Television New Zealand
Twenty years ago, TVNZ had only two channels. Now, there are at least six main channels and a few side channels.
The daily "newscast of record" comes from ONENews on TV1. But TV3 also does a nightly newscast.
ONENews' "New Zealand's Breakfast" is every morning from 6:30am to 9:00am. TV3 does a show called "Sunrise." In reality, TVNZ is competing against itself with the new morning shows.
"Breakfast" is, IMHO, the better, more watchable programme. Paul Henry is mouthy, opinionated and dryly funny (a kind of toned-down Paul Lynd). Pippa is a cute-but-credible blonde sidekick. Pete is the older, serious newsreader. And Tamati is the young, hot, modelesque weather boy. It's a good combo.
Here's a link to Breakfast:
http://tvnz.co.nz/view/tvone_minisite_index_skin/tvone_breakfast_group
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Huka Falls
The Waikato River is the largest river in New Zealand. It flows out of Lake Taupo. And just outside the city, the entire river narrows to a 20-foot gorge... and becomes the raging, blue waters of Huka Falls.
We hiked about 3km (about 50 minutes) each way to get from a park in Taupo to the Falls. The falls were absolutely --here comes that word again-- spectacular. The photos and video just don't do it justice.
Jeff declared (2,837,491 times to and from the falls) that there will be no more hiking during this trip.
We'll see.
Lake Taupo
We left the central volcanic plateau a little earlier than planned... and headed north to Taupo and it's namesake lake. It's a beautiful drive through Turangi and along the lake.
We have landed at yet another wonderful hotel... with our own balcony overlooking Lake Taupo. You can still see Mt. Ngauruhoe in the distance.
After a bit of Chinese takeaway by the lakeshore, the heated pool was a very relaxing way to spend part of the afternoon. There's a grotto... a mock cave with a spa pool... but it was just way too dark and creepy to stay in there for long. Instead, some sun by the pool was the way to go... and the fastest way to get a little bit of sunburn. (Thanks to the massive ozone hole, New Zealand has the highest ultraviolet radiation on the planet.)
We have landed at yet another wonderful hotel... with our own balcony overlooking Lake Taupo. You can still see Mt. Ngauruhoe in the distance.
After a bit of Chinese takeaway by the lakeshore, the heated pool was a very relaxing way to spend part of the afternoon. There's a grotto... a mock cave with a spa pool... but it was just way too dark and creepy to stay in there for long. Instead, some sun by the pool was the way to go... and the fastest way to get a little bit of sunburn. (Thanks to the massive ozone hole, New Zealand has the highest ultraviolet radiation on the planet.)
NZ Mobile Phone Service
Thankfully for Jeff, New Zealand has good mobile service just about everywhere. Even on the hike to Taranaki Falls, practically the middle of nowhere, he had a great signal and was able to make calls and send/receive text messages to/from the U.S. every few minutes. It's like never leaving home.
The Vodafone SIM chip is working very well and can be topped up with more minutes at convenience stores all over the country. The T-Mobile and Verizon phones also seem to work most of the time... but they are much more expensive.
Kiwi Cuisine Update
We had a great pavlova the other day, on our way to Tongariro. But had some new culinary adventures at the Skotel. A kiwi breakfast staple is beans and spaghetti on toast. I had completely forgotten about it... Rose used to make it all the time and then send us off to school. It was great!
And Jeff tried Marmite for the first time. Yeah. I tried to warn him that it's just like spreading axle grease on toast. He agreed. Ugh.
Chinese takeaway, it turns out, is the same all over the world.
And Jeff tried Marmite for the first time. Yeah. I tried to warn him that it's just like spreading axle grease on toast. He agreed. Ugh.
Chinese takeaway, it turns out, is the same all over the world.
New Zealand Weather
We've been lucky so far. The weather has been mostly cooperative.
Christchurch: mostly sunny.
Kaikoura: partly cloudy
Wellington: partly to mostly cloudy
Tongariro: mostly cloudy to overcast
Taupo: mostly cloudy with occasional showers and fair bits
New Zealand's weather is a forecaster's nightmare. There are dozens of microclimates because of the influence of the oceans, mountains, valleys, plains, downsloping, etc. The high- and low-pressure centers are the same as in the northern hemisphere, except that they rotate in the opposite direction. (I’m still trying to get used to the weather maps!)
In NZ, the warm, humid breezes are from the northeast. In the US, they tend to be from the southwest. The North Island has been dealing with a northeast flow (and lots of showers) for the past week or so. Hopefully, some of it will clear up before long.
We did, by the way, walk past the home of NZ MetService in Wellington. The headquarters is on top of a hill in the Botanic Gardens.
Christchurch: mostly sunny.
Kaikoura: partly cloudy
Wellington: partly to mostly cloudy
Tongariro: mostly cloudy to overcast
Taupo: mostly cloudy with occasional showers and fair bits
New Zealand's weather is a forecaster's nightmare. There are dozens of microclimates because of the influence of the oceans, mountains, valleys, plains, downsloping, etc. The high- and low-pressure centers are the same as in the northern hemisphere, except that they rotate in the opposite direction. (I’m still trying to get used to the weather maps!)
In NZ, the warm, humid breezes are from the northeast. In the US, they tend to be from the southwest. The North Island has been dealing with a northeast flow (and lots of showers) for the past week or so. Hopefully, some of it will clear up before long.
We did, by the way, walk past the home of NZ MetService in Wellington. The headquarters is on top of a hill in the Botanic Gardens.
Tongariro National Park
We're staying at the Skotel in National Park. It's a backpacker motel that claims to be the "Highest Hotel in New Zealand" (1140 metres ASL). And it has a much more laid-back attitude than most hotels. And, thankfully, we were able to do a little laundry during our stay. So, we're ready to go again with a fresh set of clothes!
We decided against the Tongariro Crossing. Yes. After all that planning and all that talking... we blew it off. The mountains are almost totally shrouded in clouds (and have been for weeks). That makes for some cold, wet, windy, miserable tramping. Not ideal conditions, to be sure.
So, we opted for what the people at the Skotel called "the Mini Crossing." It was a two-hour hike to the Taranaki Falls. It was an wonderful tramp through open tussock lands, nearly-tropical forest, subalpine scrub, rocky flats and river crossings. Jeff took a bit of a spill at one point and scraped up his knee but it wasn't anything serious and he trudged onward.
The Taranaki Falls turned out, just as the Skotel waitress predicted, "A very pleasant surprise." They're at least 50 feet high, cascading down the front of a steep, rock face and into a pool below. The water is icy cold... most likely melted snow from the mountains.
The pictures just don't do it justice, really.
We decided against the Tongariro Crossing. Yes. After all that planning and all that talking... we blew it off. The mountains are almost totally shrouded in clouds (and have been for weeks). That makes for some cold, wet, windy, miserable tramping. Not ideal conditions, to be sure.
So, we opted for what the people at the Skotel called "the Mini Crossing." It was a two-hour hike to the Taranaki Falls. It was an wonderful tramp through open tussock lands, nearly-tropical forest, subalpine scrub, rocky flats and river crossings. Jeff took a bit of a spill at one point and scraped up his knee but it wasn't anything serious and he trudged onward.
The Taranaki Falls turned out, just as the Skotel waitress predicted, "A very pleasant surprise." They're at least 50 feet high, cascading down the front of a steep, rock face and into a pool below. The water is icy cold... most likely melted snow from the mountains.
The pictures just don't do it justice, really.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Skotel
We have a room with a mountain view! Looking out our very own sliding glass doors (and stepping out onto our own deck), Mounts Ngauruhoe and Tongariro are just in front. The Skotel is just behind the Tongariro Grand Chateau near the Whakapapa (FAH-kah-PAH-pah) Ski Area.
The clouds come and go... so do the showers. It's much, much colder here on the plateau.
We're watching the forecast for tomorrow... to decide whether to actually do the Tongariro Crossing. The forecast, at the moment, is for the weather to be foul. If that's the case, we'll probably skip it.
The clouds come and go... so do the showers. It's much, much colder here on the plateau.
We're watching the forecast for tomorrow... to decide whether to actually do the Tongariro Crossing. The forecast, at the moment, is for the weather to be foul. If that's the case, we'll probably skip it.
The New Zealand Traffic Jam
It's a uniquely New Zealand moment. Traffic comes to a stop on a highway to let a herd of sheep passs through.
It happened to us between Wanganui and Raetihi. On a steep mountainous strech of Highway 4, a man on an ATV carrying four sheep dogs in a crate on the back warned us to slow down. Just around the bend, hundreds of sheep took over the roadway. Dogs were barking and herding the sheep up the hill to another pen.
They make postcards of these things!
The Terrain
It's so incredible how quickly the terrain changes in NZ. In the morning, we left Wellington and it's rolling hillsides. We drove into the plains... flat, flat, flat as far as the eye can see. And within another hour or so, we were climbing the steep, winding mountains in central NZ. In another hour or so, we were wandering through the subalpine scrub of the volcanic plateau.
Wow!
Wow!
Wanganui
What a cute little town! We just stopped for a quick T&P (tea and pee) on our way to National Park.
The best part is... all the holiday decorations... and it's SUMMERTIME!
Yea!
The best part is... all the holiday decorations... and it's SUMMERTIME!
Yea!
The Beehive and The Cable Car
After a quick meat pie breakie, we headed out in search of Wellington's #2 tourist attraction, the Wellington Cable Car (Te Papa, the National Museum, is the #1 attraction). Turns out, the Cable Car is really hard to find.
In the process of driving in circles, we stumbled up on the Beehive and the Houses of Parliament. The Beehive is the home of the Prime Minister's offices and the executive branch. Parliament is in, well, Parliament House. Maggie Snapsalot took screeds of shots there.
We eventually made our way up to the Botanic Gardens -- 'cause the Cable Car is right next to the Gardens. After a grueling climb up a very, very steep walkway, and past the home offices of MetService, we made it to the Cable Car.
It was built by prisoners 1898 and is still running on the original tracks today. The two cars pull each other up and down the hill... gravity does all the work. Plus, as the cables move through the winches, they generate electricity to power the lights on the cars. The carbon footprint is practically nil. Neat!
In the process of driving in circles, we stumbled up on the Beehive and the Houses of Parliament. The Beehive is the home of the Prime Minister's offices and the executive branch. Parliament is in, well, Parliament House. Maggie Snapsalot took screeds of shots there.
We eventually made our way up to the Botanic Gardens -- 'cause the Cable Car is right next to the Gardens. After a grueling climb up a very, very steep walkway, and past the home offices of MetService, we made it to the Cable Car.
It was built by prisoners 1898 and is still running on the original tracks today. The two cars pull each other up and down the hill... gravity does all the work. Plus, as the cables move through the winches, they generate electricity to power the lights on the cars. The carbon footprint is practically nil. Neat!
Wellington Public Poems
Scattered along the waterfront are a number of stone tablets inscribed with the writings of native Wellingtonians. A couple of them seemed appropriate to The Excursion.
Blue rain from a clear sky.
Our world a cube of sunlight --
But to the south
The violet admonition
Of Thunder.
-- Alistair Te Ariki Campbell
Their heads bent, their legs just touching,
They stride like one eager person through the town,
Down the asphalt zigzag where the fennel grows wild...
The wind is so strong that they have to fight their way through it,
Rocking like two old drunkards.
-- Katherine Mansfield
Blue rain from a clear sky.
Our world a cube of sunlight --
But to the south
The violet admonition
Of Thunder.
-- Alistair Te Ariki Campbell
Their heads bent, their legs just touching,
They stride like one eager person through the town,
Down the asphalt zigzag where the fennel grows wild...
The wind is so strong that they have to fight their way through it,
Rocking like two old drunkards.
-- Katherine Mansfield
An Evening in Wellington
Wellington is New Zealand's capital city. It's built on the hillsides that lead to the waterfront. It's a hustling, bustling, cosmopolitan city. For a U.S. comparison, it is very similar to San Francisco. The hills, the Victorian houses, the waterfront. It's a gorgeous place.
We ventured out on the town on foot. Our hotel is right on the waterfront but also in the heart of a vibrant neighborhood. On Courtenay Place we found all kinds of bars, restaurants and cafes... and settled on a quaint Italian bistro called Nicolini's. The food was wonderful, especially the South Island Queen Scallops. Incredible!
Walk along the waterfront, past the national museum and we turned in for the night.
Monday, December 10, 2007
Kiwi Cuisine
Jeff tried his first meat pie on Sunday. It gets very positive reviews from everyone involved. "It's like sausage gravy and biscuits, only brown," he says. "Everything has a brown sauce!"
The food is relatively expensive in NZ, even factoring in the exchange rate. Diet Coke runs about NZ$3.00. We were a bit surprised by the prices at the grocery store.
We've seen plenty of Coke products... but no Pepsi. McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut, KFC and even Subway have made huge headway in the fast food market. There's one on nearly every corner. And no county, including NZ, has been able to escape the influx of Starbucks.
Still looking forward to finding a good Pavlova while we're here! Yummy!
The food is relatively expensive in NZ, even factoring in the exchange rate. Diet Coke runs about NZ$3.00. We were a bit surprised by the prices at the grocery store.
We've seen plenty of Coke products... but no Pepsi. McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut, KFC and even Subway have made huge headway in the fast food market. There's one on nearly every corner. And no county, including NZ, has been able to escape the influx of Starbucks.
Still looking forward to finding a good Pavlova while we're here! Yummy!
The InterIslander Ferry
The Kaitaki is freakin' huge! It claims to be the largest ferry in NZ waters. It's 10 stories high, 181.6 metres long. In this case, size matters. It's big enough to take 1,600 passengers and 600 cars and dozens of full-length cargo trucks. Interestingly, it sails under the British flag. Kaitaki means "Challenger" in Maori.
The ship passes through the Marlborough Sounds and into the Cook Straight between the South Island and the North Island, then into the port at Wellington. The scenery is spectacular (getting tired of that word yet?).
Jeff was seasick again.
Petrol is Expensive in NZ!
We finally had to stop for petrol today. We had to fill up the rental car before we turned it in at Picton (rental cars can't go on the Ferry).
Shell "Ultra 91" is running NZ$1.71 and "Ultra Hi 95" costs NZ$1.76. With only a quarter tank left, the fill-up took 39.2 litres. That's NZ$67.00! Yikes!
Maybe we should have ridden bikes. Ummmm... no.
Shell "Ultra 91" is running NZ$1.71 and "Ultra Hi 95" costs NZ$1.76. With only a quarter tank left, the fill-up took 39.2 litres. That's NZ$67.00! Yikes!
Maybe we should have ridden bikes. Ummmm... no.
Kaikoura Dolphin Encounter
Oh. My. God.
We swam with dolphins in the open Pacific Ocean.
They came so close, one actually bumped Jeff and Marshall felt the current as they swooshed past. They were incredible. They respond to noises in the water -- and there's not much funnier than hearing a boatful of snorkelers attempting to make dolphin calls.
We took the 5:30am excursion. There were about a dozen swimmers on our tour. As we left the South Bay harbor, the clouds were hugging the mountains but the base was fair. The water temperature was about 15C (VERY chilly when you first leap in, even in a full wetsuit) with a moderate swell.
It took about 20 minutes to find the dolphins. They're always on the move. They like the enormous, cliff-like drop-off near the Kaikoura coast. The whales are fond of it, too, because it creates an upwelling with cold, nutrient-rich water.
We saw little planktons hanging together in chains... and dogfish (small sharks) swimming far below us. Then dozens and dozens of dolphins. They're true performers. And clowns. They love to leap out of the water. And they like to explore the odd humans that jump into their world.
The snorkeling was big fun. At least until Jeff swallowed about 10 gallons of salt water. Let the puking begin. He wasn't alone. The crew had buckets ready for everyone. Jeff and a (very cute) French guy, Cristoph, had the worst of it. They were both green all the way in to port. While they were toughing it out, Marshall went up to the bow to take pictures and shoot video. (Great stuff! Wait 'til you see it!)
Now, with a sore throat from barfing, Jeff will sound like Kathleen Turner (or maybe Lauren Bacall) for the next two days.
We swam with dolphins in the open Pacific Ocean.
They came so close, one actually bumped Jeff and Marshall felt the current as they swooshed past. They were incredible. They respond to noises in the water -- and there's not much funnier than hearing a boatful of snorkelers attempting to make dolphin calls.
We took the 5:30am excursion. There were about a dozen swimmers on our tour. As we left the South Bay harbor, the clouds were hugging the mountains but the base was fair. The water temperature was about 15C (VERY chilly when you first leap in, even in a full wetsuit) with a moderate swell.
It took about 20 minutes to find the dolphins. They're always on the move. They like the enormous, cliff-like drop-off near the Kaikoura coast. The whales are fond of it, too, because it creates an upwelling with cold, nutrient-rich water.
We saw little planktons hanging together in chains... and dogfish (small sharks) swimming far below us. Then dozens and dozens of dolphins. They're true performers. And clowns. They love to leap out of the water. And they like to explore the odd humans that jump into their world.
The snorkeling was big fun. At least until Jeff swallowed about 10 gallons of salt water. Let the puking begin. He wasn't alone. The crew had buckets ready for everyone. Jeff and a (very cute) French guy, Cristoph, had the worst of it. They were both green all the way in to port. While they were toughing it out, Marshall went up to the bow to take pictures and shoot video. (Great stuff! Wait 'til you see it!)
Now, with a sore throat from barfing, Jeff will sound like Kathleen Turner (or maybe Lauren Bacall) for the next two days.
Watch Out for Those Gulls!
The sea gulls are vicious here. They'll stop at nothing to get their beaks on some human grub.
At the Kaikoura Winery, the woman behind the counter said she would wait until we were actually sitting at a table before she brought the cheese tray out. Because the gulls would try to take the snacks.
I went inside to ask the woman to take our picture. Couldn't have been inside more than 20 seconds. As I walked back out the door, "HEY! Get off our food!" The gulls attacked. Thankfully, the winery was willing to give us a little more cheese to replace what the freakin' birds munched. It was a good laugh.
We were warned about them again at the open-window pub in downtown Kaikoura. They said the gulls would actually swoop down to the tables by the windows and grab food off your plate.
Fortunately, they didn't repeat their winery shenanigans.
At the Kaikoura Winery, the woman behind the counter said she would wait until we were actually sitting at a table before she brought the cheese tray out. Because the gulls would try to take the snacks.
I went inside to ask the woman to take our picture. Couldn't have been inside more than 20 seconds. As I walked back out the door, "HEY! Get off our food!" The gulls attacked. Thankfully, the winery was willing to give us a little more cheese to replace what the freakin' birds munched. It was a good laugh.
We were warned about them again at the open-window pub in downtown Kaikoura. They said the gulls would actually swoop down to the tables by the windows and grab food off your plate.
Fortunately, they didn't repeat their winery shenanigans.
Sunday, December 09, 2007
Kaikoura
The drive was truly spectacular. Jeff started driving today and getting the feel for a right-hand-side steering wheel and being on the left-hand side of the road. It's an adjustment, to be sure. The scenery is amazing. Especially by the time you get near Kaikoura; mountains on the left, Pacific Ocean on the right. The water is an iridescent blue.
Kaikoura itself is, well, let's face it, it's a tourist trap. But it's still a beautiful place with plenty of legitimate history, a gorgeous coastline and a tonne of things to see and do.
We spent an afternoon at the Kaikoura Winery, sipping a variety of wines, snacking on fresh cheeses and looking out over the coast. Fog would occasionally roll in on the peninsulas around us... then disappear as quickly as it came. We bought a couple of bottles of wine to keep us entertained tonight.
Jeff says he finally feels like he is "in a different country" now that we've left the city and the scenery is unlike anything he's seen before. And because all the cars are on the opposite side of the road.
Leaving Christchurch
All we wanted was breakfast. Not an enormous, arduous task. Think again.
Turns out, everything is closed on Sundays. Everything. We found a Starbucks open on Cathedral Square. And a McDonald's in Hornby. That's about it. No restaurants. No coffee shops. No grocery stores. So, yes, we ended up at McDonald's. I am ashamed. But full.
On the way out of town, we stopped for a look at the International Antarctic Centre. It's just outside of the airport. It's the last stop for most explorers before they head for the South Pole. The blue penguins are a hoot. We got to see a feeding. Seemed like only two of them, "Popo" and "Bagpipes" managed to get any of the fish! The Centre also has a room that simulates what it's like on the Antarctic continent. Complete with wind chill machine, igloo and man-made snow storm. We didn't stick around for the storm.
Turns out, everything is closed on Sundays. Everything. We found a Starbucks open on Cathedral Square. And a McDonald's in Hornby. That's about it. No restaurants. No coffee shops. No grocery stores. So, yes, we ended up at McDonald's. I am ashamed. But full.
On the way out of town, we stopped for a look at the International Antarctic Centre. It's just outside of the airport. It's the last stop for most explorers before they head for the South Pole. The blue penguins are a hoot. We got to see a feeding. Seemed like only two of them, "Popo" and "Bagpipes" managed to get any of the fish! The Centre also has a room that simulates what it's like on the Antarctic continent. Complete with wind chill machine, igloo and man-made snow storm. We didn't stick around for the storm.
KiwiSpeak
It's fun to hear Kiwi English again. Take away = Carry out. Give Way = Yield. Way Out = Exit. They're not big differences. But just enough to make you notice.
New Zealand, by the way, is pronounced "Nyoo ZEHL-end."
New Zealand, by the way, is pronounced "Nyoo ZEHL-end."
Seals and Rocks
At the very end of the Kaikoura peninsula, the seals have coalesced into a huge colony. They've taken over a huge area of rocks that mostly disappear at high tide and, at low tide, stretch hundreds of yards out into the ocean.
They just sit and sun themselves. They're fairly entertained by the gawking tourists.
Saturday, December 08, 2007
Exploring Christchurch
The beauty of getting to town at 11am is that we had all day to explore New Zealand's Garden City.
Victoria Park and the Avon River are across the street from the hotel. And only two blocks away is Christchurch Cathedral, the centerpiece of Cathedral Square. We had our very first NZ Fish & Chips experience at a rolling take away in the square. The Christchurch Tram rumbles through the city's Cultural Precinct and provides a great tour of some of the history.
We saw real, live kiwis at the Aquarium. You have to be absolutely quiet so as not to scare them. And you have to give your eyes a little time to adjust to the dark (they're nocturnal). But once you see them, they're adorable!
In the late afternoon, we decided to explore a little bit and ended up really, really lost. In fact, it's not possible that we could have ended up more in the opposite direction. (But we got to see some cricket along the way.) We wanted to go see Cave Rock... and turned up somewhere on the west side of the city (we should have been on the coast, on the EAST side). Eventually, we worked it out. And we got to see more of the city than we expected. Cave Rock was spectacular, by the way.
The Christchurch Gondola takes you up the side of a mountain. The views are spectacular! Unfortunately, the clouds began to roll in and the Southern Alps were obscured in the distance. Still, well worth the time and effort!
We had our first bottles of New Zealand's favorite, native beer, Steinlager. It's good, for beer. Dinner at the Blue Note Café in the New Regent Street entertainment district was really good... even if the service left a bit to be desired.
We're going to bed early, hoping to get our sleep schedules back to normal and eliminate any lingering jet lag.
All in all, day one was a blast! And there is so much yet to come!
Jeff Has a Blowout
On the way from Auckland's international terminal and the domestic terminal, Jeff had a massive blowout.
Not one... but both of the wheels on his luggage called it quits and disintegrated. It is no longer a rolling bag.
"Well, what do you expect? It was cheap luggage?" he said. He ripped the remnants from around the axles and hired a trolley to make it the rest of the way to the gate.
We'll do some luggage shopping in Christchurch.
Not one... but both of the wheels on his luggage called it quits and disintegrated. It is no longer a rolling bag.
"Well, what do you expect? It was cheap luggage?" he said. He ripped the remnants from around the axles and hired a trolley to make it the rest of the way to the gate.
We'll do some luggage shopping in Christchurch.
Traveling to the End of the Earth
(or to "Middle Earth," depending on your SciFi penchant)
The flights from Columbus to Cincinnati and Cincy to Los Angeles were fine. The LA leg seemed a bit long but certainly nothing like Air New Zealand's 13-hour test of our mental and physical well-being.
Captain Xanax did a great job for Jeff. He was out like a light for at least six hours. Lieutenant Ambien fell down on the job for Marshall. There is no rest for the wicked. Thank goodness for the personal, in-flight entertainment, though. Watched "Hairspray" and "Pirates of the Caribbean" plus an episode of "Absolutely Fabulous." There were dozens and dozens of choices.
The turnaround time between arriving in Auckland and leaving for Christchurch was a bit tight. We just barely made it through customs, walked 95 miles to the domestic terminal and prayed the luggage made it on the flight to CHC.
Jackie, one of Air New Zealand's flight attendants, was the nicest, most reassuring, most helpful person in the world. She took extra care of us as we boarded the plane.
The flights from Columbus to Cincinnati and Cincy to Los Angeles were fine. The LA leg seemed a bit long but certainly nothing like Air New Zealand's 13-hour test of our mental and physical well-being.
Captain Xanax did a great job for Jeff. He was out like a light for at least six hours. Lieutenant Ambien fell down on the job for Marshall. There is no rest for the wicked. Thank goodness for the personal, in-flight entertainment, though. Watched "Hairspray" and "Pirates of the Caribbean" plus an episode of "Absolutely Fabulous." There were dozens and dozens of choices.
The turnaround time between arriving in Auckland and leaving for Christchurch was a bit tight. We just barely made it through customs, walked 95 miles to the domestic terminal and prayed the luggage made it on the flight to CHC.
Jackie, one of Air New Zealand's flight attendants, was the nicest, most reassuring, most helpful person in the world. She took extra care of us as we boarded the plane.
Calling from the Future
We've been traveling for more than 24 solid hours.
Friday, 7th December 2007 did not exist. It vanished somewhere over the pacific. And we're now more than 12 to 18 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone.
That means when we call home, we're calling "from the future" into "the past!"
Friday, 7th December 2007 did not exist. It vanished somewhere over the pacific. And we're now more than 12 to 18 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone.
That means when we call home, we're calling "from the future" into "the past!"
Friday, December 07, 2007
And They're Off!
We're outta here!
Right now, at Port Columbus, it's mostly sunny and 9F. Yeah. 9F.
The MetService forecast for Christchurch on Saturday (the day we arrive) is for 19C (66F) and mostly sunny. The Weather Channel says it'll be 68F and sunny. Either way, it's an improvement. And we only have to travel 11,000 miles to get to it!
Wednesday, December 05, 2007
Don't Eat the Kiwi!
Right. It's time for a quick bit of clarification.
You don't eat a kiwi. You've never eaten a kiwi. In fact, it's against the law to eat a Kiwi. You probably have, however, eaten a kiwifruit.
A kiwi is the national bird of New Zealand. It's a nocturnal, flightless, long-billed, grub-eating little thing the size of a small barnyard hen. They are indigenous and unique to NZ. Since there are no predators on the islands, the kiwi lost the need to fly. Now, it's a natural, national treasure.
A Kiwi (capital "K") is a person from New Zealand. The Rt Hon PM Helen Clark is a Kiwi. The All Blacks are Kiwis. The term is also commonly used by currency traders referring to the New Zealand Dollar.
A kiwifruit (or chinese gooseberry) is the fuzzy-on-the-outside, green-with-lots-of-small-seeds-inside fruit you slice up in a salad or in a posh drink. They're great by themselves, too! And they have lots of Vitamin C!
Now you know. Enjoy!
You don't eat a kiwi. You've never eaten a kiwi. In fact, it's against the law to eat a Kiwi. You probably have, however, eaten a kiwifruit.
A kiwi is the national bird of New Zealand. It's a nocturnal, flightless, long-billed, grub-eating little thing the size of a small barnyard hen. They are indigenous and unique to NZ. Since there are no predators on the islands, the kiwi lost the need to fly. Now, it's a natural, national treasure.A Kiwi (capital "K") is a person from New Zealand. The Rt Hon PM Helen Clark is a Kiwi. The All Blacks are Kiwis. The term is also commonly used by currency traders referring to the New Zealand Dollar.
A kiwifruit (or chinese gooseberry) is the fuzzy-on-the-outside, green-with-lots-of-small-seeds-inside fruit you slice up in a salad or in a posh drink. They're great by themselves, too! And they have lots of Vitamin C!Now you know. Enjoy!
Monday, December 03, 2007
Packed. Already.
Something is seriously wrong.
I'm packed. Jeff is nearly packed.
Four days early.
What is THAT about?
It started as a hunting-gathering exercise. And as things began accumulate in the spare bedroom, a small experiment ensued: "Wonder if it will all fit in one suitcase?" So a couple of things went in the bag. Then a few more. Then a couple more. Suddenly, there was nothing left to roll, fold, stuff or cram. It's all in. With a little bit of space to spare.
I'm a little disturbed by it, actually. It was way too easy.
Egad! Something has to be seriously wrong...
I'm packed. Jeff is nearly packed.
Four days early.
What is THAT about?
It started as a hunting-gathering exercise. And as things began accumulate in the spare bedroom, a small experiment ensued: "Wonder if it will all fit in one suitcase?" So a couple of things went in the bag. Then a few more. Then a couple more. Suddenly, there was nothing left to roll, fold, stuff or cram. It's all in. With a little bit of space to spare.I'm a little disturbed by it, actually. It was way too easy.
Egad! Something has to be seriously wrong...
Thursday, November 29, 2007
We're Leaving In A Week!
It's nearly time. We're starting to put clothes aside and actually do some preliminary packing.
The biggest question now is whether we can each get into just two suitcases. We're trying to keep the luggage to a minimum because hauling bags back and forth to the car is going to be a pain every time we change hotels. (And we're changing hotels almost every day.) We're each taking a large bag, a medium bag and a carry on. Hopefully, that'll be plenty of room.
We’ll surely pick up souvenirs along the way... but we can always mail those home at the end of the trip.
Now, we'll just have to get through the TSA lines!
The biggest question now is whether we can each get into just two suitcases. We're trying to keep the luggage to a minimum because hauling bags back and forth to the car is going to be a pain every time we change hotels. (And we're changing hotels almost every day.) We're each taking a large bag, a medium bag and a carry on. Hopefully, that'll be plenty of room.We’ll surely pick up souvenirs along the way... but we can always mail those home at the end of the trip.
Now, we'll just have to get through the TSA lines!
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Less Than Two Weeks!
It feels like an eternity. We leave in less than two weeks. Other than a little bit of last-minute shopping and packing, all the preparations have been made. It's just a matter of waiting. Forever.We have travel vouchers. We have passports. Jeff's buying a new camera. Lori and Sara have graciously offered to check on the house from time to time. The dogs will be in Bucyrus where their Abuela can spoil them rotten. Everything is ready.
Can't we just GO already?! Geeeeeez!
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
30 Days and Counting
We are 30 days away from one of the most amazing adventures of a lifetime.
We're starting to get our gear together... thinking about what we'll pack... and HOW we'll pack. The anticipation is mounting.
After months and months of planning, it's finally going to happen!
The Dates Are Odd
The dates on the blog may seem slightly off... depending on your perspective.
The blog posting dates are set to New Zealand Daylight Time.
In the US, it may seem to be a full day ahead. Not to worry.
It's just coming from the other side of the International Date Line!
The blog posting dates are set to New Zealand Daylight Time.
In the US, it may seem to be a full day ahead. Not to worry.
It's just coming from the other side of the International Date Line!
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